Some of you know I'm currently in Afghanistan, specifically typing this from a guest house that used to be owned, and used by Osama Bin Laden, and yes, this was his bedroom... Talk about a theme room.... It's actually quite difficult to believe it, but I'm staring at the same ceiling he did, just used the same bathtub he did, and I can only wonder what thoughts he had while in here. I have issues with time and space sometimes, but to know he was in here at one point in history, or several actually, sure has a way of playing with one's mind.
Anyway, back to the trip.
I'm here as a photographer/writer, not actually flying myself as the boys in the 101st wouldn't let me wiggle the sticks on the Chinook or Blackhawk unless I signed a six year contract. Seeing as I have plans for Christmas, I figured it wasn't worth it.
Got into Bagram airbase almost two weeks ago, it's located just north of Kabul, but about an hour and a half by very dusty, and very rough road. It's the same Bagram the Soviets build up during their occupation of Afghanistan from the late 1970's to 1988. The place is a fortress, and one which houses a little piece of America, eerily reminiscent of Texas if you must know. Yes, the Base is complete with Pizza Hut, Burger King, and several espresso bars... It even has a pizza delivery system via motorbike.
The place is almost 8 miles by 8 miles - huge. There is still a lot of the Russian infrastructure in place, and while we were embedded with the 101st's Medivac "Dust-Off" squadron, our sleeping quarters were in an old Russian hanger with a few stories to tell. Our room was riddled with bullet holes of varying caliber, but no shortage in number. The story goes that when the Afghan Mujaheddin over-ran the Base at the end of the Soviet era, there was a firefight at the hanger, a "last stand" so to speak, and once over a number of Soviet Officers were hung from the rafters. No ghosts to report, but the shear number of bullet holes lends credence to the story. So, that was home for a while as the Dust Off boys and girls are on a 5 minute launch window for "Urgent" calls.
I flew with them day, night, urgent, not urgent, into "hot" areas, and into cold ones. The patients ranged from US soldiers, to and 11yr old Afghan girl who was hit by a US convoy in Jalalabad and subsequently lost a foot among other injuries, and two Afghan National Police who were blown up via a nasty V.I.E.D. (Vehicle Improvised Explosive Device) - they were a mess. One will be "ok," the other, the one who's stretcher was literally resting on my feet will not be. It's remarkable to me - even after all these years of hunting - how fragile the human body is.
He wore body armour, as we all do, but his face, arms, shoulders, and legs were exposed to the full force of the blast. Even flying through the dead of night with little illumination in the cabin, I saw the full effect when the Doctor and Medic peeled back the wrapping to intervene when his condition worsened. To see another human being in that condition is something I will remember for a very long time. I declined to take photos while he was exposed, as his dignity was certainly more important than any "shot" I would have taken.
There is a war happening here, well, "Police Action" would almost be a more accurate description for most of the country. You wouldn't know it Bagram however - everyone is almost apathetic to it. It's shockingly business like. While I haven't been to other wars, I'm told by those who have, that this one has a different feel to it, removed.
The Major in charge of the logistics for the 101st aviation units was very helpful. He hooked me up with a body harness, and let me "ride the ramp" of several Chinooks over a couple days - one hell of a way to see Afghanistan, let me tell you. Feet dangling off the back ramp, camera ready to go, and a .30cal machine gun to play with...
We flew to most of the Forward Operating Bases along the Pakistan border, some more intensely involved in the fighting than others. This is where the "war" is happening. Many of these bases are under daily fire from the Taliban, and it shows. The places are full of bullet holes, and the Blackhawks are regular visitors to pick up the wounded, as well as the odd KIA. We took a young soldier out who'd been shot in the head, I hear he'll make it, but in what condition I don't know. The hospital at Bagram houses the best surgical facility in the country, so he's there at the moment, probably enroute to Germany.
The Air Force's Combat Search and Rescue unit heard we were in the area doing a story on the Dust Off guys, so they asked if I'd like to come along for a night training mission in the Pavehawk, the Air Force's version of the Blackhawk. I believe "hell yeah" was the response if memory serves.
They went full out. I was kitted up with helmet, NVG's, an NVG lens for my camera, and a tether - no seat belts so you can move around the cabin. We took off about two hours after dark, on a moonless night - VERY dark. Three Special Forces Chinooks taxied past enroute to a ridge line not far from Bagram, I can only speculate as to what they were up to. Once clearing the Bagram area and its glut of lights, the NVG's came on, they were breaking in a new(ish) pilot, and I have to admit that not having control was a bit trying. The Military folks just don't put in the hours we do in the civilian industry, and you can feel it in the seat of your pants regardless of type. But, they do the job they are trained to do, and that's what counts.
"Hey, you want to fire the mini-gun?" asked the female (and VERY cool) Crew Chief. Another enthusiastic "hell yeah!" from me, and next thing I know 6000 rounds/min are making their way into a mountain... I shoot a lot. Shot lots of machine guns - this is VERY different, especially under NVG. The tracers are intense, and when you hit rock instead of sand, there's quite a show.
The NVG lens on the camera wasn't the best, just a single first generation NVG bolted onto a 50mm Nikon prime, but you'll get the idea.
We spent almost an hour hoisting, rappelling, and generally throwing out the "PJ's," or Para Jumpers any way we could think of. It was fascinating to see a crew of 5 communicate constantly, considering I fly alone almost 100% of the time. Totally different concept. Some of the gadgets available to the Crew Chief were right out of Hollywood, sorry, can't tell you what they were, but suffice it to say - wow.
The next day we jumped a re-supply Chinook down to Jalalabad with a sniper team, no joy again on wiggling sticks... I'll give myself "A" for effort however...
It's hot in Jalalabad, even this time of year. Stunningly beautiful however, and the city looks pretty cosmopolitan from 200ft and 140kts. We went up to the famous Khyber Pass on the way, then got squared away at the Jalalabad FOB, along with 32 of my new best friends.... One Canuck, 32 Yanks from the southern States armed to the teeth... You know I won the battle on the Air Con controls.... Noth'in nastier than an overheated Canuck as they say. Picture a Herman Nelson, except it pumps cold - shear heaven.
Spent a day with the Apache guys in Jbad, they were great. The Capt in charge got a helmet and an APU, then spent over an hour showing me all there is about the Apache and letting me play around with the helmet slaved FLIR and targeting systems. Needless to say, if you ever have an issue with a concrete block 400yds away - I can target it for you with anything from guns to rockets, to Hell Fire missiles. No, they wouldn't let me shoot... Foiled again. They did however have to conduct a run-up, so now I know how to start it too. If I can start it, rest is easy.... hehehe
We left the protection of the military today, hence the trip into Kabul.
The scene in Kabul at the moment is not good, in fact the situation "is at its worst since the fall of the Taliban in 2001" according to the "Threat Bulletin" hanging in the guest house restaurant. There have been two more kidnappings of journalists this week, but the details are being suppressed by the major news media in hopes of gaining the safe return of the pair. These kidnappings are almost strictly for extortion purposes now, as the economic situation here is beyond dire. I have to admit, that were it me in their shoes with no way to feed my family, I'd kidnap me too. We all would. That's not to say there aren't some very serious criminal elements at work here, in addition to the Taliban, but make no mistake, it is a product of the environment. People are survivors, and Afghans are survivors more than anyone.
I have the utmost respect for Afghans. Just existing in this place is testament enough, throwing out all the great armies of the world time and again since the Greeks, only adds to it. These are impressive people. I wish I could have taken photos today for you, but I simply can't, it's not safe, and it's stupid to think I'd get away with it.
(I have to add that the Afghans, ANA or Taliban, are some of the best fighters on Earth. The entire Army respects them, and the Special Forces guys even admit it - that is a ringing endorsement. It's nothing like Iraq one told me, "these guys fight.")
My reality here now is being hauled into a Police Station and questioned for 30mins about my reasons for being here - despite my valid work visa and ISAF press accreditation. Fortunately, check stops are the same the world over, so standing there like you belong nowhere else on Earth, slightly indignant at the inconvenience, and with your hand on a $20 greenback gets you everywhere. This time a few well placed smiles and a question about the Officer's family photo did the trick. We made it through now worse off, and with all our money intact.
This has certainly been a trip of firsts.
Driving through stop and go traffic in downtown Kabul, dust permeating everything, with all the noise and commotion was just what I needed after 11 days of military sterility. Right until my driver said, "You see the hole we are parked over?"
"Yes."
"It is the hole that car bomb made two days ago." (A few bombings in association with American Thanksgiving."
"Fabulous," says I.
After my night in Osama's room, we'll get up tomorrow, and meet the head architect for the Turquoise Mountain Foundation who will be guiding me through the ancient areas of the city so I can photograph - I'm praying to the God I don't believe in for good weather - this will be one hell of an experience. I'll be shooting like a madman, so I hope to have some non-military photos to share with you soon.
On the 3rd we're hooking up with the US State Dept. for a week's flying in their counter-narcotics programs. This will be fascinating I'm sure.
Here are a bunch of photos, I hope you enjoy.
Fly safe everyone, reading about too many mishaps lately.
stl
PS I've flown on three of the Chinook airframes the US Army is turning over the the Canadians late December. Many of the photos are either of them, or shot from them.
20nm NE of Bagram
A Canadian to be.
"My" Apache...
My ride.
A-10 Departing Bagram at sunrise
Afghan National Police V.I.E.D. victim.
Pavehawk ready to go. Had good flight, managed not to puke - barley.
Just before "lights out" in the Pavehawk.
One of our Crew Chief's on a Chinook
My view.
There are a few more, if you'd like I can post them later on.
('Cause I'm green with envy.)
