Quick Drain Valves

niss · Post by **niss** » Tue Sep 12, 2006 9:41 am

I found that the quick drain valves on my 140s tanks were leaking so I orderd a pair of CCA-1550 from AircraftSpruce.

I was wondering do I need an AME to sign this off? also I wanted someone to double check me, you drain the tanks, then remove the old ones and apply thread tape (is there a specific kind?) to the threads and thread it back into the tank?

Is that it or is there more?

Thanks,

Niss

warner · Post by **warner** » Tue Sep 12, 2006 4:52 pm

check your pm's

Wrench · Post by **Wrench** » Tue Sep 12, 2006 6:14 pm

I would have used seal lube. I never use thread tape when i am dealing with fuel.

onthelook · Post by **onthelook** » Tue Sep 12, 2006 7:37 pm

yep tape is bad.. can get it in the system if your not careful.. and it clogs filters quite fine...

niss · Post by **niss** » Tue Sep 12, 2006 8:40 pm

anyone have a link to the best stuff for sealant? can i just get 'er at crappy tire?

again no word on weather i legally need an AME to sign off on it?

Wrench · Post by **Wrench** » Tue Sep 12, 2006 11:08 pm

Yes you need a AME to sign off on your maintenance. The only work that can be performed by a private operator and dont require a AME release is found in CARS 575.109(a)(1). As for finding seal lube. Try getting a hold of somone at aviall.

mellow_pilot · Post by **mellow_pilot** » Wed Sep 13, 2006 12:26 am

Niss, I'm no AME, but doing your own maint...

WOHA!!! Easy ther big fella. Unless you're reeeeallly sure what you're doing, DON'T!! That's what the first few findings int the TSB report are going to talk about. Personally, I'd like to read more of your posts!

IF you decide to go ahead with your own maint (and just have someone sign it off), might I suggest joining the EAA or some equivilant group, or become good buddies with an AME and learn how to do stuff B4 doing it.

Not that you hadn't thought about it yourself and come to the same conclusion.

I will say that it is good that you want to know your airplane well enough to work on it. It is rare to meet people these days who delve deeper than 'stick back, houses smaller'... Good on ya for wanting to know, make sure you learn what's safe from an old fart who's been around the block, after all, it's your ass.

Clear skies buddy.

fixin · Post by **fixin** » Wed Sep 13, 2006 8:09 am

You can buy a product called fuel lube it comes in a blue can and it's sticky as shit I use it on gaskets for boost pumps, fuel probes and all of the related components in the fuel systems of our A/C but once again I would not not recommend doing this job on your own. Fuel systems are a rather important aspect of your A/C and do ytou really want to be flying at 5000Ft and wondering if you did the job correctly.

Hedley · Post by **Hedley** » Mon Sep 18, 2006 9:31 am

I have a can of "threadlube", which some people call "gorilla snot".

It's this disgusting black stuff which you wipe a trace of on the
threads before you assemble it. Most of it will wash off anyways when you put the quick drain back in, but at least it demonstrates that your intentions are good and your heart is pure.

I just took a quick look on the Aircraft Spruce website (get their catalog) and found this:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/c ... erseal.php

Changing a quick drain must be signed off by an AME, but it's a lot quicker and easier to do than assembling furniture from IKEA.

I might mention that leaking quick drains, 99% of the time it's just the little o-ring at the tip that's lost it's perkiness. Being the cheap bastard that I am, I would rather change a 10 cent o-ring than a 15 dollar quick drain, which I will admit is shinier.

Never, ever use teflon tape on an airplane. Having said that, I have seen aircraft manufacturers use teflon tape, but they violate all the conventions, like the "no fiber nuts forward of the firewall" rule ... look at a TCM engine, and tell me what holds the engine and the prop on?

Dr.Piper · Post by **Dr.Piper** » Fri Nov 24, 2006 7:32 am

I work on cherokees everyday. Definitely dont use tape. Usually all it is, is just small particle where the o-ring meets the mating surface. But yes you do (by law) need an AME to sign it off. If you are still having this problem I suggest pushing the quick drain in a few times to dislodge the contaminent. But eventually you will have to take it off and clean it anyways. I dont think I have ever had to change a fuel quick drain in our fleet because of an O-ring problem. if you got the knack you dont even have to drain the tanks (and hardly spill a drop).

Jungle Jim · Post by **Jungle Jim** » Fri Nov 24, 2006 2:04 pm

Niss,

Use fuel lube and wear a short sleeve shirt and don't bother draining the tanks.( I have some if you don't)The short sleeve shirt is handy because when you hold your finger over the 1/8 NPT thread the fuel will run down your arm to your elbow.

Jim M.

wrenchturner · Post by **wrenchturner** » Fri Nov 24, 2006 7:34 pm

Jungle Jim wrote:Niss,

Use fuel lube and wear a short sleeve shirt and don't bother draining the tanks.( I have some if you don't)The short sleeve shirt is handy because when you hold your finger over the 1/8 NPT thread the fuel will run down your arm to your elbow.

Jim M.

Tie a rag around your wrist, will prevent the fuel from running to your elbow....or further

Spinner · Post by **Spinner** » Fri Nov 24, 2006 8:01 pm

by the way I guess Curtiss is not providing any seals for their drain valves any more. Apparently we don't know how to properly install the oring/seal.

So now they want you to buy the complete valve instead.

Quick Drain Valves

Quick Drain Valves

Fuel Lube