Looking for some information that might not be found in the ground school material or aircraft manual that would be helpful in the checkout process. Any characteristics, experiences etc for both the Mark 2 and 4 Harvard.
Thanks in advance
Harvard Checkout
Moderators: sky's the limit, sepia, Sulako, Right Seat Captain, lilfssister, North Shore
Re: Harvard Checkout
Chippy,
I was taught by the same guy who checked out my father about 35 years ago, a great pilot with a couple of thousand hours in the Harvard. What I have below is mostly from him, and some of my experiences. I don't know if he would want his name posted, so I won't, but he should get most of the credit for this information. I was initially checked out on my father's MK4, but regularly fly my MK2.
Pre Start:
Mk 2 - Static ports are on the pitot tube, just back from the leading edge on the top and bottom.
Oleo extension should be only three fingers. The oleo is the weakest part of the gear leg, bending can, and will, occur at the oleo.
Make sure the control locks are on before you tow the airplane (unlocks tailwheel). A bend towbar, or worse, can happen if the control locks are off.
Pull up on the flaps and ensure flap uniformity across wing and centre sections during walk-around. Ununiform flaps will screw up your approach and landings.
Place a rag between the tie-town o-ring and the access panel, located in the centre section of the airplane. Vibrations will cause the o-ring to wear through the access panel door.
Check the U-hinges on the elevators. These have been found to crack in the corners at the base of the U (their weakest point).
Grease your prop every 10 hours. It’s so easy to do, don’t wait for your annual.
Check hydraulic fluid every 20 hours or so.
Startup
Both MK2 & 4 have inertia starters, however, MK4 starter will use the battery to assist the inertia starter when engaged. What this means is that the MK2 STARTER ONLY WORKS UNTIL THE INERTIA HAS RUN OUT while the MK4 will run after the battery. If you have a fire in a MK2 during start, you won’t have time to spin the starter back up before the fire causes damage and consumes the engine compartment. I cannot stress the importance of priming the engine properly.
When priming, the primer canister on the MK4 will fill by using the wobble pump; the MK2 won’t, it has to be drawn into the canister after fuel pressure is at 3-4lbs with the wobble pump (this is similar to patting your head while rubbing your stomach). After the first prime, things go easier.
If a ground crew is hand-cranking the inertia starter, make sure the engine starts the first time. A second attempt with the hand-crank will result in cardiac arrest.
I'll post more later...
Drew
I was taught by the same guy who checked out my father about 35 years ago, a great pilot with a couple of thousand hours in the Harvard. What I have below is mostly from him, and some of my experiences. I don't know if he would want his name posted, so I won't, but he should get most of the credit for this information. I was initially checked out on my father's MK4, but regularly fly my MK2.
Pre Start:
Mk 2 - Static ports are on the pitot tube, just back from the leading edge on the top and bottom.
Oleo extension should be only three fingers. The oleo is the weakest part of the gear leg, bending can, and will, occur at the oleo.
Make sure the control locks are on before you tow the airplane (unlocks tailwheel). A bend towbar, or worse, can happen if the control locks are off.
Pull up on the flaps and ensure flap uniformity across wing and centre sections during walk-around. Ununiform flaps will screw up your approach and landings.
Place a rag between the tie-town o-ring and the access panel, located in the centre section of the airplane. Vibrations will cause the o-ring to wear through the access panel door.
Check the U-hinges on the elevators. These have been found to crack in the corners at the base of the U (their weakest point).
Grease your prop every 10 hours. It’s so easy to do, don’t wait for your annual.
Check hydraulic fluid every 20 hours or so.
Startup
Both MK2 & 4 have inertia starters, however, MK4 starter will use the battery to assist the inertia starter when engaged. What this means is that the MK2 STARTER ONLY WORKS UNTIL THE INERTIA HAS RUN OUT while the MK4 will run after the battery. If you have a fire in a MK2 during start, you won’t have time to spin the starter back up before the fire causes damage and consumes the engine compartment. I cannot stress the importance of priming the engine properly.
When priming, the primer canister on the MK4 will fill by using the wobble pump; the MK2 won’t, it has to be drawn into the canister after fuel pressure is at 3-4lbs with the wobble pump (this is similar to patting your head while rubbing your stomach). After the first prime, things go easier.
If a ground crew is hand-cranking the inertia starter, make sure the engine starts the first time. A second attempt with the hand-crank will result in cardiac arrest.
I'll post more later...
Drew
Re: Harvard Checkout
I should have put this earlier, but memorize the instrument panel & handle location. The instruments are in different locations in the two models…it sucks trying to glance at an instrument or reach for a handle when you don’t know where it is.
After start, let the oil warm to 30 degrees before moving the prop to full fine. I also wait until 40 degrees before releasing the brakes.
Believe it or not taxing ‘properly’ will be that hardest part of your checkout. You will have an advantage over most because of the swivelling tailwheel on the Chipmunk. Manoeuvre slowly at first, the weight of the airplane can get away on you if it’s not properly managed. Don’t start the turn and then unlock the tailwheel as the airplane will get out from underneath you, unlock tailwheel before turning the airplane. Here’s the hard part. When turning the airplane around, make sure the inside wheel is always rolling forward. If it stops, there’s a large amount of torsion and stress on the gear leg, with the added bonus of flatspots on your tires. If the inside wheel rolls backwards, you look bad…back to airmanship...and people are watching. Moving the airplane around on the ground will become an art and is hard to appreciate until you do it. ALWAYS 'S' TURN!
Although I haven’t experienced this between the two models, the MK4 is apparently more susceptible to carb ice than the MK2. I was warned by my father “the MK 4 gets carb ice if you walk by it with an ice cream cone.” I haven’t noticed anything between the two airplanes, but someone has. What it does tell me is to be conscious about carb ice during your run-up. If the temp/dewpoint is close, add 1/3 or more carb heat. If I add it, I add after my run-up because the handle is so difficult to reach on takeoff (if your seat-belt is locked, you can’t reach it. Also see the section on raising the gear). I know of more than one Harvard in my region that has gone in on take-off because of carb ice.
Seat belt – I do NOT lock the seat belt. See above.
Take-off:
Use full power, 2250 rpm & 36”. The RCAF book instructs to use 2250/32” but ring chatter occurs, see the power settings section below for details.
Some people raise the tail at a certain IAS, but I move the stick forward with the throttle and the tail will come up as the speed increases. This will help keep you ground track straight, your wingman will appreciate this if he’s there.
After take-off raise the gear WITHOUT looking at the handles or PowerPush. The airplane is heavier than most its size and will sink quickly at low speeds. More than one propeller has been shaved because the pilot looked down to get the handle. To those who don’t know, PowerPush is a lever on the MK2 to engage the hydraulics; you move the gear/flap handle, then engage the hydraulics by depressing the lever. The MK4 has the same hydraulic system, but the lever is pushed with the movement of the gear/flap handle.
Power back to 2000/30” (see power section), mixture handle to throttle. Climb out @ 95 knots. MK2 will outclimb the MK4 by about 75fpm because it’s lighter. (or I’ve just notice between our two airplanes)
….more later…
After start, let the oil warm to 30 degrees before moving the prop to full fine. I also wait until 40 degrees before releasing the brakes.
Believe it or not taxing ‘properly’ will be that hardest part of your checkout. You will have an advantage over most because of the swivelling tailwheel on the Chipmunk. Manoeuvre slowly at first, the weight of the airplane can get away on you if it’s not properly managed. Don’t start the turn and then unlock the tailwheel as the airplane will get out from underneath you, unlock tailwheel before turning the airplane. Here’s the hard part. When turning the airplane around, make sure the inside wheel is always rolling forward. If it stops, there’s a large amount of torsion and stress on the gear leg, with the added bonus of flatspots on your tires. If the inside wheel rolls backwards, you look bad…back to airmanship...and people are watching. Moving the airplane around on the ground will become an art and is hard to appreciate until you do it. ALWAYS 'S' TURN!
Although I haven’t experienced this between the two models, the MK4 is apparently more susceptible to carb ice than the MK2. I was warned by my father “the MK 4 gets carb ice if you walk by it with an ice cream cone.” I haven’t noticed anything between the two airplanes, but someone has. What it does tell me is to be conscious about carb ice during your run-up. If the temp/dewpoint is close, add 1/3 or more carb heat. If I add it, I add after my run-up because the handle is so difficult to reach on takeoff (if your seat-belt is locked, you can’t reach it. Also see the section on raising the gear). I know of more than one Harvard in my region that has gone in on take-off because of carb ice.
Seat belt – I do NOT lock the seat belt. See above.
Take-off:
Use full power, 2250 rpm & 36”. The RCAF book instructs to use 2250/32” but ring chatter occurs, see the power settings section below for details.
Some people raise the tail at a certain IAS, but I move the stick forward with the throttle and the tail will come up as the speed increases. This will help keep you ground track straight, your wingman will appreciate this if he’s there.
After take-off raise the gear WITHOUT looking at the handles or PowerPush. The airplane is heavier than most its size and will sink quickly at low speeds. More than one propeller has been shaved because the pilot looked down to get the handle. To those who don’t know, PowerPush is a lever on the MK2 to engage the hydraulics; you move the gear/flap handle, then engage the hydraulics by depressing the lever. The MK4 has the same hydraulic system, but the lever is pushed with the movement of the gear/flap handle.
Power back to 2000/30” (see power section), mixture handle to throttle. Climb out @ 95 knots. MK2 will outclimb the MK4 by about 75fpm because it’s lighter. (or I’ve just notice between our two airplanes)
….more later…
Re: Harvard Checkout
Thanks, all good tips that I'll keep in mind. Nothing like firsthand experience. Much appreciated.
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Blue Side Down
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- Joined: Tue May 04, 2004 11:27 am
Re: Harvard Checkout
As fun as it is to fly both the M2 and M4, it may be recommendable that you pick one sort and stick with it. Otherwise you'll jump into the 2 after flying the 4 for however many times and wonder why the flaps or gear aren't cycling when you throw the corresponding handle.
When checking gear down and locked, the pins in the windows are the critical indicator- if two pins aren't visually apparent, odds are you have an issue. In any case, with three gear position 'hints' that the machine gives, landing gear up would be an excessively embarrassing event.
Keep in mind however, that the manual recommends for good reason that off field forced landings be made with the undercarriage retracted.
Practice the CF's 'Standard Forced Approach Procedure/ PFL' with a high key a 1500 agl as the standard engine out drill. The machine flies the 360 profile to a field like it's on rails.
If you blow a tank or sustain zero or negative g long enough that the engine quits, pull the throttle to idle quickly. The quickly part tends to be more important for the zero/ neg-g case, as it is the more likely situation from which an overspeed may occur when she starts sucking gas again.
If the machine picks up a wing on the runway when transitioning into or out of its 'floaty' stage on takeoff or landing- do what is necessary to keep the wings level and both oleos symmetrical. A lazy or lack of proper crosswind correction technique has lead to the demise of more than one machine.
Similar to the R985, when the low fuel pressure light comes on, it dosen't mean your fuel level is 'low', it means that the noisemaker is going to start sputtering at about the same time you notice the light and put two and two together.
Like H2P mentions, use caution the first few times you unlock the tailwheel with any forward speed. You're sitting on a lot of airplane down there, and when she swings, she does so with gusto.
Don't forget your lead apron. Those painted dials glow in the dark for a very good reason.
When checking gear down and locked, the pins in the windows are the critical indicator- if two pins aren't visually apparent, odds are you have an issue. In any case, with three gear position 'hints' that the machine gives, landing gear up would be an excessively embarrassing event.
Keep in mind however, that the manual recommends for good reason that off field forced landings be made with the undercarriage retracted.
Practice the CF's 'Standard Forced Approach Procedure/ PFL' with a high key a 1500 agl as the standard engine out drill. The machine flies the 360 profile to a field like it's on rails.
If you blow a tank or sustain zero or negative g long enough that the engine quits, pull the throttle to idle quickly. The quickly part tends to be more important for the zero/ neg-g case, as it is the more likely situation from which an overspeed may occur when she starts sucking gas again.
If the machine picks up a wing on the runway when transitioning into or out of its 'floaty' stage on takeoff or landing- do what is necessary to keep the wings level and both oleos symmetrical. A lazy or lack of proper crosswind correction technique has lead to the demise of more than one machine.
Similar to the R985, when the low fuel pressure light comes on, it dosen't mean your fuel level is 'low', it means that the noisemaker is going to start sputtering at about the same time you notice the light and put two and two together.
Like H2P mentions, use caution the first few times you unlock the tailwheel with any forward speed. You're sitting on a lot of airplane down there, and when she swings, she does so with gusto.
Don't forget your lead apron. Those painted dials glow in the dark for a very good reason.
Re: Harvard Checkout
If you want a really good vacation, Go see my Buddy Thom Richard in Kissimee Florida,,
He has a small outfit called warbird adventures, and offeres excellent training, for reasonable rates, (mind you its no Harvard
)
There is even a TF-mustang on the field if you want to go have some fun!
He has a small outfit called warbird adventures, and offeres excellent training, for reasonable rates, (mind you its no Harvard
)There is even a TF-mustang on the field if you want to go have some fun!
Rule books are paper - they will not cushion a sudden meeting of stone and metal.
— Ernest K. Gann, 'Fate is the Hunter.
— Ernest K. Gann, 'Fate is the Hunter.
Re: Harvard Checkout
The MK2 has a fuel pressure light ad BSD indicates, the MK4 is a fuel low light activated if the port wing goes under a certain quantity (8 gallons I think).Blue Side Down wrote:Similar to the R985, when the low fuel pressure light comes on, it dosen't mean your fuel level is 'low', it means that the noisemaker is going to start sputtering at about the same time you notice the light and put two and two together.
Thanks, I gotta try this.Blue Side Down wrote:Practice the CF's 'Standard Forced Approach Procedure/ PFL' with a high key a 1500 agl as the standard engine out drill. The machine flies the 360 profile to a field like it's on rails.
...Continued...
OK, you’re flying, enjoy!
There’s nothing really to say about any adverse characteristics in the Harvard. The right wing drops when you stall the airplane in any attitude. This can be a problem in a right hand circuit turning from base to final. Notice Bud Granley use this when he does his snap-roll on take-off, he always rolls to the right. Although I don’t recommend practicing a lot of spins, spinning the airplane to the right is much flatter and I’ve heard of guys getting themselves into a flat spin. I will only spin the airplane to the left with 7000 feet of airspace in hand; feed your rudder input just before the stall to ensure you spin in the direction you want. Follow the RCAF procedures and don’t forget to go to idle cut-off so you don’t cause a fire outside the carburetor.
Base/Final
On base you should already have your gear down & checked. I add in one more check for the gear which is to bring the throttle to idle, the gear horn will go off they are not locked. This is definitely an argumentative procedure because of shock-cooling -- do what you will.
RCAF procedures have you go to 2250 rpm on the base leg (I think), but I use 2000 rpm. The guy who checked me out had a prop leak after he rebuilt the engine because the RPM’s were too high with no load on the prop (as indicated from the overhauler). I also like it at 2000 RPM because if an overshoot is required, push the throttle up to 30” and concentrate on the rest – airspeed, gear, flaps, etc. I don’t have to go back to those handles and reset to climb power settings. My brother uses 2250 and has not problems, so again, you can make your own decision here.
After rolling final in the MK2 and selecting full flap, you may/may not get all or any of those flaps. Here’s the gig: The hydraulics are on a timer that is based on temperature. If the OAT is high, the hydraulics you activated in the downwind when you dropped you gear may have timed out by the time you select full flap on final. So, ALWAYS press the PowerPush button after selecting flaps on final. To reinforce this, I do a quick check of the important stuff here: Gear, Flaps, Prop.
NEVER side slip the airplane with the canopy open, your singed eyebrows will remind you.
Landing/Rollout
3-point landings in the Harvard are easiest with someone in the backseat…hands down. The centre of gravity in the MK2 is further forward than the MK4, so 3-point landings are more difficult, adding a bit of power before you run out of back stick will help the tail to come down. 3-point landings dramatically shorten you landing roll, but you don’t have much rudder authority so use them sparingly in heavy crosswinds.
Bouncing the airplane during 2-point landings is certainly exciting and will get out of hand quickly if you don’t act. If you bounce the airplane, check the stick forward firmly and aggressively while adding some power. If you bounce the airplane a second time, pour the coals on and go around; that beautiful cage that is surrounding you will ensure your survival, but you will wreck a perfectly good airplane.
When rolling on the mains, fly the tail down. This way, you will manage the yaw tendency when the tail comes down, you will be treating the tail with the respect it deserves (the tailwheel on the Harvard doesn’t shutter), and your passenger won’t be freaked out. I’ve covered the upwind wing wanting to fly in crosswinds. BSD is correct with reacting accordingly, I added this in because the tendency for it to happen in the Harvard is there & I don’t like surprises.
In the MK2, DO NOT raise the flaps until you are past the hash marks and the airplane is stopped. The flap handle and gear handles are about 4 inches apart, they are the same height, they feel similar, and they have the same movement (ie. Back is up). It is too easy to pull the wrong handle. Stop the airplane and look at the handle before selecting up. I am sure this is why the MK4 handles are in more intuitive locations.
Shutdown
The MK2 does not have a master switch, so make sure all switches are off, including the push button over the mag switch (the one easily forgotten).
Return the mixture to full rich after shutdown. If the wobble pump is used with the mixture in idle cut-off, fuel will spill on the ground with potential fire hazards.
Now, go do it again!
Power settings
RCAF recommended:
Take-off: 2250/32”
Climb: 2000/28”
Airwork/aerobatics: 2000/28”
Cruise: 1750/23”
23” – 115 knots @ 23 GPH
I used these up until my annual this year. Almost all my cylinders marginally passed their leak test. My AME (worked lots on beavers/Norseman/Harvard) told me there’s not enough pressure in the cylinders and the rings are moving around…”I don’t care how much gas you go through, fly the next 10 hours at 1900/29”. “ All cyclinders came back up to upper 70’s during their leak tests AND the airplane is running much better. After lots of research & forum discussions I picked the following numbers and cleared them through my AME:
Take-Off: 2250/36” (full power – the engine loves this)
Climb: 2000/30”
Airwork/Aerobatics: 2000/30”
Cruise: 1800/25” – 27”
25” – 125 knots @ 25GPH
27” – 133 knots @27GPH
My checkout pilot gave me a copy of his pilot notes. In them I firmly remember two pieces of advise:
“…one of its most predictable traits is that it does not suffer foold gladly, and will retalliate against inattention or improper handling – quickly and with vengence. But treat it gently, firmly and with respect and this aircraft will respond to a degree that is pure delight to its pilot.”
“The Harvard will take you right back to, and impress upon you the real basics of flying in a manner unique to itself…Treat it with respect, and it will look after you.”
Re: Harvard Checkout
Thanks for all the information. I'll be sure to post anything I come across that others might find useful once I get some experience on type.
