Primer
Moderators: sky's the limit, sepia, Sulako, lilfssister, North Shore
Primer
I'm going to open up this on-going debate about primers to AvCanada.
What kind of primer should I use internally on my RV-8? Ideally I would like to use a rattle can for the sake of ease. I would also like to be able to purchase it locally (Car Quest, Napa, Parts Source, Princess Auto ... where ever!). I'm slowing reading about primers and would like to hear any opinions and advise.
What kind of primer should I use internally on my RV-8? Ideally I would like to use a rattle can for the sake of ease. I would also like to be able to purchase it locally (Car Quest, Napa, Parts Source, Princess Auto ... where ever!). I'm slowing reading about primers and would like to hear any opinions and advise.
--Air to Ground Chemical Transfer Technician turned 4 Bar Switch Flicker and Flap Operator--
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crazy_aviator
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- Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 10:13 am
Re: Primer
my suggestion is to use an epoxy primer and apply individually than tiuuch-up after assy. If your not concerned about longevity etc on int surfaces, dark green ZCP is okay
Re: Primer
To be perfectly honest,,
I wouldnt worry about internal priming,, Keep the plane inside and treated with ACF 50 or similar, and you wont have any issues,,
I have a Cessna thats 45 years old that is corrosion free inside, all with no primer.
One thing I cant stand is when the internal primer inside wings etc begins to peel.. looks soooooo bad..
Just my 2c
I wouldnt worry about internal priming,, Keep the plane inside and treated with ACF 50 or similar, and you wont have any issues,,
I have a Cessna thats 45 years old that is corrosion free inside, all with no primer.
One thing I cant stand is when the internal primer inside wings etc begins to peel.. looks soooooo bad..
Just my 2c
Rule books are paper - they will not cushion a sudden meeting of stone and metal.
— Ernest K. Gann, 'Fate is the Hunter.
— Ernest K. Gann, 'Fate is the Hunter.
Re: Primer
Any good epoxy primer. Even Endura. Don't bother with 'rattle-cans'.
For the extra little expenditure, get yourself a little air compressor and a cheap touch-up gun.
You could be set up like that for less than $300.00.
You will never look back. I can assure you that.
I just about have not 'rattle-canned' anything in over 10 years.
'Two-part mixed' is just always better quality, lasts longer and is better bang-for-your-buck, + you can brush it on as well, where need-be.
If you give it a light scuff with maroon Scotch Brite, and clean it well with 'Wash & Wipe' before you shoot it, it will adhere just fine and last the life of the airplane.
ACF-50 is OK too and is a good thing down in the low points where moisture might collect against a skin-lap.
'48
For the extra little expenditure, get yourself a little air compressor and a cheap touch-up gun.
You could be set up like that for less than $300.00.
You will never look back. I can assure you that.
I just about have not 'rattle-canned' anything in over 10 years.
'Two-part mixed' is just always better quality, lasts longer and is better bang-for-your-buck, + you can brush it on as well, where need-be.
If you give it a light scuff with maroon Scotch Brite, and clean it well with 'Wash & Wipe' before you shoot it, it will adhere just fine and last the life of the airplane.
ACF-50 is OK too and is a good thing down in the low points where moisture might collect against a skin-lap.
'48
The fastest way to turn money into smoke and noise..
Re: Primer
+1HS-748 2A wrote:Any good epoxy primer. Even Endura. Don't bother with 'rattle-cans'.
For the extra little expenditure, get yourself a little air compressor and a cheap touch-up gun.
You could be set up like that for less than $300.00.
You will never look back. I can assure you that.
I just about have not 'rattle-canned' anything in over 10 years.
'Two-part mixed' is just always better quality, lasts longer and is better bang-for-your-buck, + you can brush it on as well, where need-be.
If you give it a light scuff with maroon Scotch Brite, and clean it well with 'Wash & Wipe' before you shoot it, it will adhere just fine and last the life of the airplane.
ACF-50 is OK too and is a good thing down in the low points where moisture might collect against a skin-lap.
'48
Time you get done rattle can-ing the plane you could probably buy the compressor/gun that '48 is talking about and the job will be way better.
The family Murphy Elite project is getting done with Dupont Corlar 810R which is a chromate bearing etching primer. You can get it at your local NAPA, recommendation came from Dupont Tech. Rep. office.
D
Re: Primer
How much weight would the primer add to a complete RV8?
Anyone have an idea?
Anyone have an idea?
Rule books are paper - they will not cushion a sudden meeting of stone and metal.
— Ernest K. Gann, 'Fate is the Hunter.
— Ernest K. Gann, 'Fate is the Hunter.
Re: Primer
During assembly, (if it's not too late) give mating parts (skins / ribs, etc) a quick spray with a decent rattle-can (Krylon works best).
Pre-paint (after assembly), Endura is the best (although one of the hardest to apply nicely)
Pre-paint (after assembly), Endura is the best (although one of the hardest to apply nicely)
Re: Primer
I've heard of builders using roughly 1-2 gallons. One gallon weights roughly 3.6lbs. You must also take into consideration over spray, spillage, and also for no better term; "gun container" residue. So, I would bet that it is closer to 6 pounds or less added to the overall weight. I'm really not concerned with the weight trade off vs protection. I often wonder if it is better re-sale value for potential humid/coastal buyers way down the road.Strega wrote:How much weight would the primer add to a complete RV8?
Anyone have an idea?
Keep the recommendations coming. I've yet to rivet anything. So once I figure out a primer, I can start. Again this is a discussion regarling internal priming. I'm running out of cleco's, so the sooner, the better.
--Air to Ground Chemical Transfer Technician turned 4 Bar Switch Flicker and Flap Operator--
- structurespilot
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- Joined: Mon Jul 06, 2009 8:13 am
- Location: Calgary, Alberta
Re: Primer
Check out the intructions at the begining of you RV8 plans. They have a write up about what primer to use, its a well thought out write up. They recommend Primer etch, made by Sherwin Williams. I used it on my RV7, and It goes on really thin, and I don't think it adds much weight. If you live near the Ocean I wouldn't go with out a two part primer. If you want to cheap out and you live in dry environment you could just use a spray on corrosion inhibitor after final assembly, instead of paint. Dinitrol is a brand that most major manufactures use for that. Rattle cans don't stick well, and wipe off with solvents, so future cleaning could be an issue.
Norm.
Norm.
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iflyforpie
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Re: Primer
I actually agree with Strega on this one
, I would not bother with internal primer.
Here's the inside of the wing of our 47 year old 206 with no corrosion inhibiting compounds at all....

If you fogged your aircraft with ACF-50 every few years, you would be laughing. I would not bother with Dinotrol, Corban, Corrosion X, or Mastinox (they outta outlaw that stuff) on a light aircraft that is not near salt water.
Here's the inside of the wing of our 47 year old 206 with no corrosion inhibiting compounds at all....

If you fogged your aircraft with ACF-50 every few years, you would be laughing. I would not bother with Dinotrol, Corban, Corrosion X, or Mastinox (they outta outlaw that stuff) on a light aircraft that is not near salt water.
Geez did I say that....? Or just think it....?



