Beaver Tips

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Oldfartus
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Re: Beaver Tips

Post by Oldfartus »

Castorero wrote:
When I first started flying an old fella who had done a bit on Beavers told me not to worry, he said the starter had less torque on the crank than pulling the prop through by hand. Never had hydrolic lock on a Pratt, either 985 or 1340. I did a bit with a Drom a while ago, I did make sure I pulled that one through before start up. A minor point that this was in a fairly temperate climate, rarely saw below -10C and no more than 40C.

We must have had the same instructor...
I always thought I was taking a chance doing that and would spin the prop with the starter and mags off before starting. I was never comfortable doing this on a leaky older engine, mind you.

Any further thoughts?
I do the same with any radial, turn over about four blades before turning mags to both. On shut down cool off then run to 1200 prop to full coarse (Counterweight prop), wait till prop is full coarse then idle back to about 600,check for dead cut of mags, (That's a dead CUT). Run up to about 1000 then idle cut off. Wait till engine is still then mags off, master off.
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skybaron
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Re: Beaver Tips

Post by skybaron »

These are some great posts.

The beaver feels like a docile aircraft, "one that flies itself", but its stall characteristics are anything but docile.

Slatts, Beaver Bob, and xs bank all touched on the subject, and many posts brought up interesting viewpoints in regarding downwind turns, and how in theory it shouldn't be a factor with a stall providing airspeed is kept above the stall limit.

The Beaver has a hard bite, and caught many experienced pilots by surprise, especially on turns either to final approach and/or turns while climbing.

One experience of mine while transitioning on the DHC included:

On Gusty days, trying to keep her level, at times applied full aileron deflection, to quickly realize that she wasn't responding to my input. Little disheartening when you're low and around terrain. Lots of rudder helps in this scenario.



I think the points on stall characteristics, wing dropping, and aileron ineffectiveness should be elaborated on this post for future or new DHC2 pilots out there.
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Last edited by skybaron on Thu Dec 17, 2009 9:53 am, edited 1 time in total.
chesty
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Re: Beaver Tips

Post by chesty »

I disagree with " the stall characteristics are anything but docile" comment. I have never had a wing drop on me, even say 20 to 30 degrees bank with some power, you won't realized your stalled untill you look at the vsi and see the rate of decent. In a normal power off stall espically with a baron stoll equipped beaver I find it just kind of floats along, you are desending but there is no actual "break". I think that is one of the biggest things to pay attention to in dehavilland airplanes, is to watch your speed in the turns because you will be close to stalling or stalled and you won't eaven realize it!
I am certainly no expert on the beaver, I only have about 1500hrs on the beaver, I find that it is "very docile" and that is what kills people.
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Re: Beaver Tips

Post by bronson »

"On Gusty days, trying to keep her level, at times applied full aileron deflection, to quickly realize that she wasn't responding to my input."

I'm gonna guess it was gusty and you had better than T/O flap on at the time, so you'd have no up travel on your ailerons. that's the only time I've ever had that experience at least.

Beaverbob: Lots of Beavers now have the tach and MP right under the windshield now , where the ADF head used to go. That tendency to roll over in a gust is the reason ( otherwise you just see things going wrong out of the corner of your eye). Suprised you've never had that happen, I think sooner or later you will...and man does it ever wake you up!
I'm not argueing the benefits of full flap and stick ahead downwind, it's in the turn back into wind that can bite ya and it has bitten quite a few.
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chesty
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Re: Beaver Tips

Post by chesty »

turning into the wind: why not just pull the rudders up, it will weather cock very quickly but I doubt you would ever flip over, if you flipped a beaver over taxing because of wind you DEFFINATLY should not have been there!
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Re: Beaver Tips

Post by skybaron »

Everything I said was a lie.
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Re: Beaver Tips

Post by tzu »

skybaron wrote:Everything I said was a lie.
Burn! :lol:
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xsbank
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Re: Beaver Tips

Post by xsbank »

Couple more I thought of - apologies if they have been done.

To set T/O flaps, roll the aileron down (the one you're looking at!) and match the flaps (I think - dammit now I'm going to have to look).

The flap selector is always 'down' unless you are cruising.

If you are heavy and the nose just seems too high in cruise, 'crack' the flaps just a scotche, the tail will come up and so will your cruise speed from 'glacial' to 'tortoise.'

29/19 is an approved power setting..... so is METO. Consult the manual.

If you have an oil-pressure drop that stops and is steady about 10 pounds lower than normal, your oil screen is bypassing and your engine is about to kak. Earth is your friend NOW.

Check your oil cap's integrity once in a while, lest your passenger be anointed.

The jiggleth of yon fuel pressure gauge doth foretell the demise of cacophony.

Taketh off on the full one lest the sea rise up like a tempest and smite thee.

You are not allowed to open the sump drain and just let the goo go in the sea/river anymore. Get a can.
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beaverbob
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Re: Beaver Tips

Post by beaverbob »

xsbank wrote:Couple more I thought of - apologies if they have been done.

To set T/O flaps, roll the aileron down (the one you're looking at!) and match the flaps (I think - dammit now I'm going to have to look).

The flap selector is always 'down' unless you are cruising.

If you are heavy and the nose just seems too high in cruise, 'crack' the flaps just a scotche, the tail will come up and so will your cruise speed from 'glacial' to 'tortoise.'

29/19 is an approved power setting..... so is METO. Consult the manual.

If you have an oil-pressure drop that stops and is steady about 10 pounds lower than normal, your oil screen is bypassing and your engine is about to kak. Earth is your friend NOW.

Check your oil cap's integrity once in a while, lest your passenger be anointed.

The jiggleth of yon fuel pressure gauge doth foretell the demise of cacophony.

Taketh off on the full one lest the sea rise up like a tempest and smite thee.

You are not allowed to open the sump drain and just let the goo go in the sea/river anymore. Get a can.

Aileron to right extend flap until flap the second rib on the ailerons = take off flap.

I even cruise with the flap selected "down". Saves a step later.

Flaps cracked in cruise - improves visibility as well as small effect on cruise speed. I think it might improve top cylinder cooling.

I check the oil cap on every take off. I had a passenger get a very oily leg about 22 years ago.

I don't always take off on the full tank, but check the quantities faithfully every take off. Sometimes we do 4 or five takeoffs on a trip and only 3 could be on a full tank. :rolleyes:

I basicly agree with XSBank.

Bob
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Re: Beaver Tips

Post by xsbank »

Thanks for the clarification, Bob. I'm really pushing my luck with these brain cells. Right about the second rib!
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Re: Beaver Tips

Post by Siddley Hawker »

If you are heavy and the nose just seems too high in cruise, 'crack' the flaps just a scotche, the tail will come up and so will your cruise speed from 'glacial' to 'tortoise.
Works for the Otter too.
The jiggleth of yon fuel pressure gauge doth foretell the demise of cacophony.
Verily, he doth speak the truth. :D
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Re: Beaver Tips

Post by HS-748 2A »

Aileron to right extend flap until flap the second rib on the ailerons = take off flap.
By 'rib' you guys mean corrugation?

I always thought it was just 'lined up' with.

Whatever it takes though to correspond with the indicator though eh.

I'll have to try that.

'48
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Re: Beaver Tips

Post by bronson »

"Whatever it takes though to correspond with the indicator though eh."

Actually it's a way to find T/O flap in spiteof the indicator!
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Re: Beaver Tips

Post by HS-748 2A »

bronson wrote:"Whatever it takes though to correspond with the indicator though eh."

Actually it's a way to find T/O flap in spiteof the indicator!
Yeah - I see what you're getting at there. I'm not a high time Beaver driver. Not at all.
Just a few hours in the left seat.

Wrenched on them a little though and I can say it suprises me the indicator works at all.

They probably are not very accurate.
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Re: Beaver Tips

Post by Cat Driver »

I found the best way to get top performance from Beavers was to buy them flowers. :smt008
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Re: Beaver Tips

Post by HS-748 2A »

I prefer picking 'ditch-flowers' - (as opposed to buying them)
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Re: Beaver Tips

Post by tzu »

What power/MAP setting to use when setting up for an approach from cruise?


Obvious - Beaver Green here.


Looking for a smooth technique to approach, one where the passengers would barely notice - flap extension, and higher rates of descent...

:mrgreen:
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Re: Beaver Tips

Post by HS-748 2A »

Whatever it takes to get the rate of descent you want.. Normal approach should be 75 MPH. Prop to full fine, power to modulate descent rate, attitude to control A.S. This config with T/O flap should give you about 8oo fpm, if memory serves.

Go easy on the flaps, only making very small adjustments as your speed changes; ie, instead of going from that "C-Hair for cruise" to T/O all at once, just select down and do half-pumps every few seconds or so, adjusting elevator pressure to keep the attitude you need. Don't let the nose pop up with flap application. Bringing the flaps down slowly as the airspeed bleeds off prevents that tendancy significantly.

Like anything.
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Re: Beaver Tips

Post by Rowdy »

Not gonna lie, cant wait to get back in the ol' girl :D
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Re: Beaver Tips

Post by flyinthebug »

Rowdy wrote:Not gonna lie, cant wait to get back in the ol' girl :D
:supz:
wish i was with ya on that flight Rowdy! Hows the arctic? You still in up there?
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