Tips, hints, tricks, etc

[fgrimes]

I'm new to avcanada, and don't know if this has been done already, but I thought it would be nice for some veterans to share some tips, hints, trick, whatever with the greenies who come to this site.

Any advice, little tricks that you learn in the field, whatever.

Here's a start - instead of crazy glueing a nut to your finger, for those hard to get places, try using flypaper, the sticky stuff on it. It works really good, and doesn't take off your fingerprints

[ourkid2000]

Thats not bad!

How about using a piece of string tie through the hole of Adel clamps around wire bundles to keep it closed which makes it way easier to get the stud through it and get it started. You just cut it off after you've got the stud through the clamp started.

Sometimes I also put a piece of string tie across my socket so that when I put the nut in the socket, the nut sticks in it and won't come out. It helps to get the nut started in tight places.

[l_reason]

Two most important tools

1. A flashlight
2. A pen to write down what you find

[Ballsssssss]

Use fuel lube to stick a nut to your finger.

Close the Adel clamp with duckbills and give it a squeeze then twist and it will stay together.

Cut a long, thin piece of aluminum and ty-wrap it to your wrench to keep a nut in the open end.

Never use ty-wraps on engine mounts, I see this FAR too much. They wear into the steel. Kora Seal done right is the best way to attach to an engine mount (if not using proper Adel clamps).

Don't use 1300L to stick a crank-seal into the case.

When using 1300L for anything, always let both sides dry, then activate one side using MEK on a clean cloth. Sticks and stays. Use cross strokes when applying two coats.

I can't think of anything else right now.....

[iflyforpie]

I always use DC4 for hard-to-reach hardware, I'll have to try the fly paper trick.

For those pain in the ass adel clamps, I use medical locking forceps instead of duckbill or needle nose pliers. They are usually narrower, and lock so you have two hands for the bolt/screw and nut. I also use NAS1096 or similar hex-head bolts with the #2 Phillips in it so you can spin it on fast but still get a socket on if you need to; plus its only 5/16 so a socket fits better without rubbing against the clamp.

Frozen or stripped screws (I know, pretty basic, but you never know). Valve grind compound, a new APEX #2 Phillips bit, and a speed handle (preferably a snap-on one or one with a big handle you can push up on). No risk of airframe damage or further stripping the screw like using a rattler or butterfly. Also tighten the screw slightly to break it and then loosen it.

Lycoming exhaust nuts. Instead of grinding a 1/2 inch socket to practically nothing, use a high quality open end wrench over the stud and turn the wrench about its long axis with a drift, screwdriver, or extension through the box end.

1300L. If applying over large surfaces, apply lightly and evenly first and let dry, then use toluene to activate it with a spray bottle as you mate the surfaces.

[ourkid2000]

These are great tips......

Anyone have any good tips for removing tie-wraps without damaging wires? I come from a string tie world where it's much easier to get em off. With tie-wraps, i'm still trying to find the ultimate way to get em off.

[iflyforpie]

These are great tips......

Anyone have any good tips for removing tie-wraps without damaging wires? I come from a string tie world where it's much easier to get em off. With tie-wraps, i'm still trying to find the ultimate way to get em off.

Well...if you cut them at the square thingy IIIIIII[IIIII with your side cutter blades on each side of it and above the band, you won't cut the wires. Not always possible because of access though.

[fgrimes]

some good tips!

When taking a prop off a Navajo, I use two 7/8 snap-on off sets, together on the nut, then it doesn't strip.

On the Lycoming exhaust, I got lucky years ago, and I got a cheap wrench free at a gas station, and that thing actually fits just right on exhaust nuts! It's never failed me

[iflyforpie]

When taking a prop off a Navajo, I use two 7/8 snap-on off sets, together on the nut, then it doesn't strip.

I hate those stupid props! I use valve grind compound on the flats of the wrench to keep it from slipping. Also those ratcheting open end wrenches are good for the long process of working the bolts loose/tight (make sure you have the prop supported). Make sure you don't use them to break the bolts or they will strip.

On the Navajo at least you have that nice extension so when you lockwire the bastard you aren't grinding your hands on the ring gear.

For the constant speed props installed Lycomings on smaller aircraft, use a heavy rag across the ring gear to save your hands. Sorry, no tips on the lockwire, you just have to curse and swear like everyone else. Just don't get it backwards (D'oh).

I love my IO-520.

[mytwopropsworth]

When trying to get a bolt or screw through adelle clamps, I insert a tapered pin punch thru all clamps holes being attached. I then use a pair of needle nose vise grips adjusted correctly to clamp the clamps together. The tapered punch is then removed after correct alingnment is achieved, then insert a screw or bolt start the nut only a couple of threads. Remove the vise grips and completly tighten the fastener. Has worked for years.

[Human Factor]

Hemostats are smaller than needle nose Vice-Grips and can be jockied into more confining spaces. I have several pairs of straight and bent-nose 'stats in my toolbox:

[torquey401]

I got this from a book of aircraft maintenance tips, especially useful when installing the stiff black DG adel clamps.
Take an old hacksaw blade to a grinder with a wheel with sharp edges or use a dremel. Grind a tapered vee lengthwise into the centre of the blade, with the edges feathered down to a fairly sharp edge. When installing adel clamps, hold them shut and slide the screw or bolt through and jam the modified blade so that the vee engages the threads of the fastener. You can even tighten the clamps like this if need be to get enough threads to start the nut. I can usually do this while holding the tool right next to the hole and just get a thread or two to poke through then catch it.

To help solder two wires, I've taken two small alligator clips and connected them together with about six inches of twisted 0.040 lockwire. It allows me to clip one end to something solid and the other to hold one end of a wire, while soldering another to it. Like a third hand!

For PT6 prop governors, I've taken a 3/8 box end wrench and ground down the handle and narrowed the box end to just fit easily between the studs and the body of the governor. Open ended wrenches tend to slip.

For Hartzell props, I took two old prop bolts and cut off the heads and then ground down the shank to create a bullet shape. Then I cut a slot across it to accept a stubby flat blade screwdriver, just in case, and polished it. With a little prop bolt lube, I install them into the prop going on. Once the prop is installed, they should easily unthread as the prop should be resting on the dowels. Makes getting everything aligned just that much easier, especially when lifting the props by hand. I also made my own "dogbone" for unbolting and torquing Hartzell props. Comes in handy when the shop's one gets misplaced. I made it long enough to work with my own torque wrench that only goes up to 75 ft-lbs. I have also figured out the Hartzell torquing sequence so that all you have to do is number each bolt 1 to 8 and follow the sequencing for the first two torque settings and then go around the horn for the final one.

On Navajo's and Cheyenne's, you definitely need a 13/16 wrench that has had the hell ground out of the open end in order to easily adjust the main gear down lock switch. I think mine only has about 1/4 of an inch left on either side of the open end and is about 1/4 of an inch thick. Works great.

Left handed drill bits can save lots of time with stripped screws. Self explainatory, I hope.

I made a template to paint prop tip stripes easier and more consistant.

For Navajo exhaust nuts, I bent a 1/2 inch wrench box end to just fit perfectly and aligned the open end to match the box end, just like cylinder base wrenches. A 1/2 inch drive torque wrench fits the open end perfectly.

I've taken a set of cheapo 1/4 inch drive sockets and cut down the hex ends to about a 1/4 inch deep or so. Useful for pushing a bolt through a hole, where you don't want the socket to push against the structure. The place that comes to mind for this is installing KingAir cowlings.

Hope this can help someone.

[niss]

Lycoming exhaust nuts:

Wobble Extension!



I have a set of Herbrand from my grandfather that did it awesome.

[iflyforpie]

Cool, now you can break the studs even faster!!

[niss]

Cool, now you can break the studs even faster!!

Don't look at me, that was my qualified AME.

[123dash]

Use crazy glue on your fingers to hold hardware!!!!!!????? You deserve what you get

[iflyforpie]

Cool, now you can break the studs even faster!!

Don't look at me, that was my qualified AME.

Oh crap, I wasn't trying to put salt in wounds there!!

[Beaver Driver]

Anyone got a trick for the prop goveror on th P&W R-985? Those things are a bitch!

[northwings]

For extremely stripped #8 and #10 screws use a #27 drill bit to drill into the head a bit. Insert a #2 (or red) Robertson into the hole, give a little tap on the end of the screwdriver with your palm, and start unscrewing. Works like a charm every time, way better than any screw extractor kit i've ever found.

[niss]

Cool, now you can break the studs even faster!!

Don't look at me, that was my qualified AME.

Oh crap, I wasn't trying to put salt in wounds there!!

Haha no worries, my ame broke a stud while removing an exhaust manifold so we had to pull the jug and send it out to get restudded.

[ottopilot]

For removing tyewraps without damaging wires, use a wire spoon,feed the spoon in and push you cutters into the spoon...cut. they are $6 and fixing a wire costs much more in labor.

Stuck screws. use mouse's milk and to for lunch, come back and it comes out... or snapon socket/flute extractors....or an old screw driver and hit the end with a hammer, same a screw knocker but you get a better feel without the risk of damage.

for avionics techs, mate-n lok sockets with lockwire crimped in the end and some heat shrink over them make great pin probes for testing.
An old salmon fishing reel and some spare wire makes a great extension lead for your multimeter.

water monometers make great pressure gauges in a pinch and are easy to make with some clear tubing.

[ourkid2000]

Don't have super long test leads for your meter if you're doing continuity checks? Use the airframe! Same as a lead.