Aircraft Ownership

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GTAFI
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Aircraft Ownership

Post by GTAFI »

I am looking to buy a Cessna 150M.

Looking for advise on how to go about it. I don't want to buy a cheap POS that will give me problems. I know its going to cost more, and that's OK.

I will of course pay an AME to inspect the aircraft and I will buy it in Canada to avoid importation headaches.

I have read posts here suggesting to avoid ownership. Others encourage it.

Planning on flying it 300 hours a year or so.

Thanks
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xysn
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Re: Aircraft Ownership

Post by xysn »

Google up the 'COPA guide to buying an aircraft'
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Colonel Sanders
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Re: Aircraft Ownership

Post by Colonel Sanders »

Get one with a good engine, that was rebuilt not
too many years ago. If it has some hours on it,
do the rope trick to ensure it runs smoothly.

Get one with good avionics. I might suggest a
now-obsolete G430, a new transponder, and
a good intercom.

Note that I didn't even mention paint and interior.

Remember the old rule of thumb: if you spend
$1000 on an airplane, it's value goes up at most
$500, so you had best be prepared to fly it a lot
of hours to amortize the difference.

Also remember that aircraft trade in a certain
price range. For example, you could gold plate
a buck fifty, with a new engine, new prop, new
glass panel, new paint and interior, etc and it still
would not be worth more than about $30k, or
whatever top dollar is for a buck fifty these days.
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summitx
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Re: Aircraft Ownership

Post by summitx »

Really depends on your financial situation. If your a rich guy or even single and making good coin and want to throw all your spare dollars away on flying then why not. I just recently got out after after 25 years of owning aircraft. From my perspective it's no longer sustainable for the average guy. If you must, are mechanically inclined and willing to be careful and smart I suggest homebuilt. The regulations and attitudes of new age ame's make owing a certified aircraft stupid expensive. Also if the above fits perhaps something in the owner maintenance category. Not sure but I think some older 150's apply. From a past time.......I owned a 150, did my commercial license on it, flew if for 500+ hrs and sold it for $3000 more than I paid for it. It was a great plane. Flew if from Boundary Bay to St. John's NFLD where I sold it. Hope your are as lucky. Good luck with it.
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flatface
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Re: Aircraft Ownership

Post by flatface »

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Last edited by flatface on Fri May 30, 2014 11:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
akoch
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Re: Aircraft Ownership

Post by akoch »

Find the one you like, really like. Owning an aircraft COMPLETELY changes how you go about flying, and your enjoyment level.

Don't get stuck with the C150 idea, there are plenty of much more interesting planes around for not much more money.
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ea306
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Re: Aircraft Ownership

Post by ea306 »

I have owned a couple Cessna 150s. An H and a J. Both were good little airplanes. Cheap to operate except I had to replace the Sprag Clutch for the starter on both of them...

Colonel Saunders:
Could you please describe the "rope trick"? I have not heard of it and I am curious to learn about that one if you dont mind....Thanks in advance!

ea306
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Colonel Sanders
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Re: Aircraft Ownership

Post by Colonel Sanders »

Ok. The problem is that they got rid of 80/87 which was the
correct fuel for low-compression aviation engines such as the
O-200, and everyone now uses 100LL which is appropriate for
turbocharged and supercharged engines which obviously have
more than ambient intake manifold pressure.

But 100LL is not "low-lead", it has an incredible amount of
lead in it, which over time deposits on the innermost part
of the exhaust valve guide at the top. Carbon forms on
the exhaust valve guide.

Now, with chemical solvents (such as marvel mystery lube
(unapproved) or AvBlend, which is approved) you can soften
the carbon on the exhaust valve stem. But no chemical,
not even Hopps #9 can touch the lead in the valve. It
needs to be physically removed when the valve starts
sticking as per Lyc SI 1425A:

http://www.lycoming.com/support/publica ... I1425a.pdf

Yes, I'm sure TCM has an equivalent doc. All my
friends with Continental engines do the rope trick.

1425A is woefully inadequate. It does not mention dental
floss (crucial) and it laughingly refers to reamers as the
method of removal of lead, when in fact they are just
gauges. But it's a place to start.

Basically you drop the exhaust valve into the cylinder
(seriously), clean the valve guide, pull the valve stem
out a spark plug hole, clean it as best you can, then
put it all together.

I do the rope trick all the time, and it makes a tremendous
difference to how the engine runs! It's not a varsol overhaul
but it's pretty close.

Also ... one could consider running (mostly) mogas, which
has no lead, in an O-200. Problem with mogas is that
you never know what you get from tankful to tankful.

Really the best gas for low compression engines would
be 94UL but that's a story for another time.
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torquey401
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Re: Aircraft Ownership

Post by torquey401 »

If you are sold on wanting a 150, join the 150 owners club. Lots of info about owning and flying the 150. Also has a classified section.
http://www.cessna150-152club.com/

If buying from the US, spend the extra money and get a nice 150. It will save you time and money when it comes time to import. And always have a trusted AME look things over.
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Blakey
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Re: Aircraft Ownership

Post by Blakey »

Colonel Sanders wrote:Ok. The problem is that they got rid of 80/87 which was the
correct fuel for low-compression aviation engines such as the
O-200, and everyone now uses 100LL which is appropriate for
turbocharged and supercharged engines which obviously have
more than ambient intake manifold pressure.

But 100LL is not "low-lead", it has an incredible amount of
lead in it, which over time deposits on the innermost part
of the exhaust valve guide at the top. Carbon forms on
the exhaust valve guide.

Now, with chemical solvents (such as marvel mystery lube
(unapproved) or AvBlend, which is approved) you can soften
the carbon on the exhaust valve stem. But no chemical,
not even Hopps #9 can touch the lead in the valve. It
needs to be physically removed when the valve starts
sticking as per Lyc SI 1425A:

http://www.lycoming.com/support/publica ... I1425a.pdf

Yes, I'm sure TCM has an equivalent doc. All my
friends with Continental engines do the rope trick.

1425A is woefully inadequate. It does not mention dental
floss (crucial) and it laughingly refers to reamers as the
method of removal of lead, when in fact they are just
gauges. But it's a place to start.

Basically you drop the exhaust valve into the cylinder
(seriously), clean the valve guide, pull the valve stem
out a spark plug hole, clean it as best you can, then
put it all together.

I do the rope trick all the time, and it makes a tremendous
difference to how the engine runs! It's not a varsol overhaul
but it's pretty close.

Also ... one could consider running (mostly) mogas, which
has no lead, in an O-200. Problem with mogas is that
you never know what you get from tankful to tankful.

Really the best gas for low compression engines would
be 94UL but that's a story for another time.

The rope. Tell him about the rope!!! He might not read the link.
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Colonel Sanders
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Re: Aircraft Ownership

Post by Colonel Sanders »

I'll let a British Cabinet Minister talk about the possible uses for the rope.
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