For those of you that are interested...
With respect to the lawnmower technology IO-240 engine in the DA20-C1.
The winterisation front baffles (I don't bother with the rear ones) are in and out, in and out, at this time of the year.
We leave them in until the ground temperature exceeds 20 degrees C. They say they should be removed at 12.5 deg C but if you do this below 20 degrees the aeroplane will run too cold.
The oil temperature and especially the CHT will never reach the green.
We had a CADORs when the aeroplane returned with the oil temp below the green.
Even with the baffles in, the CHT will be barely in the green.
When the weather exceeded 20 degrees we had the aeroplane return do to the oil temp being high in the climb to 4,500 feet... It came down alright but the aeroplane returned just in case.
Even so the CHT stayed well in limits.
It is difficult to keep the CHT within the limits, and it is very important that the mixture is leaned properly whatever the altitude is.
The baffles are very easy to put in, two camlocs each, and pilots have to add another thing to their decision making skills.
Training in this aircraft has to be better than in the low performance Cessna... The C1 is an aeroplane that performs, really performs! It is perhaps a better preparation for the Cirrus and other higher performance aeroplanes in the student's future.
You need to plan for your descent, know your TOD point is much further back than in the draggy Cessna. It is easy to end up too high and try to descend at a higher speed and perhaps shock cool the precious engine.
All students here get to do flapless landings. These take planning!
My morning start procedure is:
10 seconds priming, turn the prop by hand through 6 revolutions, 5 seconds priming, turn it another 4 by hand, and she'll fire up easily!
Make sure the ignition is off, mixture ICO and throttle closed when turning it by hand. There must be someone in the cockpit who knows what he/she is doing and the brakes on.
Use the checklist procedure and you grind the starter for too long for me to be happy.
You also IMHO risk fire... I don't know of any fires, but the excessive priming without drawing it into the cylinders (sucking in) has to be a fire risk.
No modern engine should require this sort of procedure.
The modern Rotax engine suffers none of the above. It starts easily, and you can close the throttle and dive it on a cold day without so much risk!
I hear other schools do not fly these DA20-C1 aeroplanes in the rain!
As soon as I saw that resin leading edge on the Sensenich prop, an amateur way of making a propeller!, it had to come off.
We have the MT propeller on ours and can fly full throttle through the rain if we want to... But with this prop, full throttle means 143 Knots as well!
The MT propeller has a stainless steel leading edge and is built with German quality and sophistication.
These two points:
Plus recent service bulletins/ADs (not sure which) apparently require to raise the idle setting somewhat (or so our PRM says), which does not help bringing it down either.
-It floats much more during the flare. Do not attempt a landing with T/O flaps unless you have a rather long runway (4000'+).
1. The RPM thing was a problem to do with the B17 fuel injection system and no longer applies to aircraft modified to the original injection system... It won't idle below 950 though.
2. We land flapless and you don't need 4,000 feet if you plan it properly.
Do not use the best glide speed, do not exceed 60 knots, and do slip the bugger if you need to!